Day 10- Filandia to Cartegena (18/7/25)

 

So, this city was only on my list of places to visit as a possibility. Whilst it is full of amazing history, and an important place in the story of the modern Colombia, it is also known as a very popular destination for tourists, especially from the US. Additionally, it is known to be expensive and there also some problems with street crime; not to the extent of Medellin or Bogota, but it’s a known issue. So, I have always be a bit torn about whether to include it or not. Seeing as it did not seem possible to go directly to Santa Marta (which has always been on the list) without going via Bogota, it turned out that a direct flight to Cartagena, then a bus journey along the north coast to Santa Marta, would actually the better way of doing things. It’s a 4 hour journey on the bus but it follows the coast and also goes through Barranquilla, which will be interesting.

The flight from Pereira to Cartagena is about an hour. Internal flights are not always the cheapest way to go, but they certainly are the quickest. I literally paid for my mistake by not deciding earlier to book the flight. The price went up by about £40 in a matter or days. But the reason for my late booking was that I wanted to see how I felt about these revised travel plans once I’d been in Quindio for a few days; there was always a chance that I might stay on for another day or so or go somewhere else first. I am unrepentant about making these late plans; the important thing is that I go where I feel, when I feel.

I woke up in Filandia following a wonderful night’s sleep. The bed was by far the most comfortable so far, and I thought that Hostel Granada in Bogota was the best until then.
Hugo gave me a coffee, and I sat on the terrace looking out at the spectacular view. I don’t think that I would ever tire of it. I watched the Condors circling in pairs over the hills and enjoyed how the light on the mountains was constantly changing. After another coffee, I showered, packed and checked out.

The bus to Pereira was due at midday. I spent a pleasant hour sitting in a café on the square, watching the activities of daily life: trucks being unloaded with vegetables, people getting into jeeps on their way to Valle de Cocora; people sitting around talking. It was all very interesting. I went to the small office just off the square and bought my bus ticket.

The journey to Pereira in a car is probably about half the time that the old rattly bus takes. It really struggled up the hills, and we did most of them in first gear.

As I hadn’t eaten, I bought myself an Arepa con carne at Pereira bus station before taking the taxi to the airport. Pereira looks like quite a nice city. It doesn’t seem to attract the tourists, which gives it a nice natural, and lived-in look.

Pereira is a small but modern airport. The views from the terminal make it one of the most beautiful I think I have seen. It has the feel of an airfield that is surrounded by mountains. There was a 30-minute delay on the flight, so I had a couple of beers whilst waiting.

Coming into land at Cartegena, the sun had just gone down but I could still clearly see the Caribbean coast for the first time, and the islands that lie just a few miles offshore. All very pretty.As I got off the plane, the stifling heat hit me. It is a hot and humid night. I dread to think what it will be like when the sun is up tomorrow. I am going to need some sun cream for sure.

The taxi from the airport to the hotel took me past the old walled city, which looked magnificent, even in the half-light. It is only a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, so that is where I will be going tomorrow. The flight delay had given me an opportunity to do a little research on the city and its history. I also got ChatGPT to give me some suggestions about what to do with my short time here. I did reflect on how people would have backpacked prior to the internet. Back in the day, all you had were Lonely Planet guides and recommendations from other travellers. It made me feel lucky to have had this convenience, but also that it makes it just too easy. For example, yesterday morning, I spent an hour or two booking flights and accommodation online. Bringing a laptop is an extra burden but has made life so easy. Anyway, travelling is supposed to be enjoyable, it’s not meant to be difficult.

The hotel itself is fairly small, but at least it has air conditioning in the room, which is a huge relief. There is a terrace upstairs, which looks quite nice, but there is not much shade there.
I needed some water and a bite to eat, so I went for a little walk around the streets near the hotel. The area is called Getsemani, which is apparently one of the trendier parts of the city. The hot streets were full of people. Street vendors were selling everything from fruit, to grilled meat, to cigarettes. Music was pumping out of every bar and restaurant; it was a lot to take in. Maybe tomorrow I will go and experience the nightlife properly. Tonight, I just had a couple of beers and some grilled chicken, and opted for a good rest.

This is only a brief update as I am tired and want to get an early start tomorrow, before it gets too hot.